Part 1 of the "Hotels That Changed Me" Series
Let me tell you about one of the most extraordinary hotels I've ever stayed in across 64+ countries and seven continents. This place didn't just meet my expectations – it completely redefined what I thought a hotel experience could be. That place is Olonana, a luxury safari camp in Kenya that sits along the banks of the Mara River.
On Safari in Kenya, home to my favourite hotel in the world.
And trust me, after being named a 5X Condé Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialist, I've stayed in some seriously incredible properties around the world. But Olonana? It's in a category all its own. It's the kind of place that ruins you for ordinary travel. The kind of place that makes you understand why people fall in love with Africa.
This is the first in my series exploring the hotels that have left an indelible mark on my soul – the properties that go beyond beautiful rooms and excellent service to create something truly transformative.
Why Olonana Earned Its Place on This List
Here's the thing about luxury travel: it's not just about thread count or marble bathrooms (though Olonana has both in spades). It's about those moments that take your breath away. It's about waking up to a hippopotamus family living their best life right outside your window. It's about sitting in a sunken bathtub watching elephants traverse the riverbank at sunset.
That's Olonana.
This isn't just a hotel. It's a gateway to understanding the raw, untamed beauty of Africa while being wrapped in absolute luxury. It's proof that you don't have to sacrifice comfort to have an authentic wilderness experience.
The Suites: Where "Tent" Becomes an Understatement
Most safari camps will give you a tent – sometimes a really nice tent, but still a tent. Olonana? They said "hold my champagne" and built actual suites. We're talking spacious accommodations that would make a Manhattan penthouse jealous.
Picture this: You walk into your suite and immediately notice the sunken half-moon shaped living room that flows seamlessly into a bedroom area. The bed is enormous, draped with elegant netting that makes you feel like royalty (because, let's be honest, you are). But here's where it gets insane – the entire room faces the Mara River.
I'm not talking about a glimpse of water. I'm talking about floor-to-ceiling views of a river absolutely teeming with hippos. These magnificent creatures are just... there. Living. Existing. Being absolutely glorious right in front of you.
The Wrap-Around Balcony: Your Private Wildlife Theater
Then there's the massive wrap-around balcony complete with a daybed. This isn't some token outdoor space – this is where you'll spend hours watching nature's greatest show. Hippos? Check. Elephants? Absolutely. Monkeys swinging through trees? You bet. It's like having a front-row seat to the most exclusive wildlife documentary ever filmed, except you're in it.
The magic of Olonana at night.
I've literally spent entire afternoons on that daybed with a glass of South African Pinotage (my favorite wine), just watching the ecosystem unfold before me. No phone. No emails. Just pure, unfiltered connection with nature.
This is what I mean when I talk about hotels that change you. Olonana doesn't just give you a place to sleep – it gives you space to breathe, to observe, to reconnect with something primal and beautiful.
The Bathroom: A Spa Experience in the Wild
Now let's talk about the bathroom situation, because this is where Olonana really flexes. The entire bathroom area features massive slate floors that feel cool under your feet in the African heat. But the pièce de résistance? The rain shower.
This isn't your standard hotel rain shower. This thing is enormous – so big you could literally lie down in it if you wanted to (and trust me, after a long safari drive, you might want to). The shower has windows that look out onto a lush, private garden, creating this incredible indoor-outdoor experience.
And then – because Olonana apparently believes in giving you all the luxury – there's a sunken tub on the river side of the room. Imagine soaking in a hot bath while watching the sunset over the Mara River, with the sounds of Africa creating the most incredible natural soundtrack. It's not just a bath. It's a spiritual experience.
The Dining Experience: Where Location Meets Culinary Excellence
The main area at Olonana is positioned right over the riverbed, and the dining options are nothing short of spectacular. You can choose to dine inside with air conditioning and elegant decor, or outside right on the water, where you're shaded from the African sun but still completely immersed in the environment.
The food itself is exceptional – a blend of international cuisine with local Kenyan influences. Fresh ingredients, expertly prepared, with presentation that would make any Michelin-starred restaurant proud.
But honestly? The real star is the setting. There's something magical about enjoying a perfectly cooked meal while watching the river flow by, knowing that at any moment, wildlife might make an appearance. I've had breakfast interrupted by a parade of elephants crossing the river. I've had dinner accompanied by the distant roar of lions claiming their territory.
These aren't manufactured moments. This is real, raw Africa, served alongside world-class cuisine.
The Bar: Where Nights Become Legendary
Okay, if you know me, you know I appreciate a good bar situation. And Olonana's bar is chef's kiss.
During the day, it's your standard upscale lodge bar – comfortable, well-stocked, professionally run. But at night? At night, it transforms into something else entirely. The space becomes a spirit tasting lounge where you're treated to an incredible selection of whiskeys and – because you're in Africa and they do gin like nobody's business – some of the most incredible gins you've ever tasted.
Picture yourself seated near a roaring fire (because yes, it gets chilly at night), swirling a glass of aged whiskey, sharing safari stories with other travelers, and feeling like you've stepped into the most exclusive club in the world. Because essentially, you have.
This is the perfect nightcap setting. The kind of place where connections are made, stories are shared, and memories are forged. Some of my best travel friendships were born around that fire, bonding over shared awe at what we'd witnessed that day.
Why This Matters for Your Next Adventure
Look, I don't include hotels in this series unless they've genuinely moved me. Olonana made the cut because it represents everything I believe luxury travel should be: immersive, transformative, comfortable, and absolutely unforgettable.
Saying hello to the locals at Giraffe Manor in Kenya.
This is exactly why Olonana is a cornerstone of our Kenya + Uganda Experience – because some places are so extraordinary, so transformative, that they need to be shared with our community.
On this curated group trip, you'll not only stay at Olonana, but you'll also experience:
- Game drives through the Maasai Mara (one of the world's most incredible wildlife reserves)
- Visits to other exceptional safari properties
- The unique experience of Giraffe Manor (yes, giraffes stick their heads through your breakfast window)
- Gorilla trekking in Uganda (life-changing doesn't even begin to cover it)
- Carefully planned logistics that let you focus on the experience, not the details
The Bottom Line
After 64+ countries, hundreds of hotels, and countless luxury experiences, Olonana holds a special place in my heart. It's the perfect blend of comfort and wilderness, luxury and authenticity, relaxation and adventure.
It's earned its spot as one of the hotels that changed me – and I have a feeling it will change you too.
The question isn't whether you should experience Olonana – it's when.
Coming up in the "Hotels That Changed Me" series: I'll be taking you inside more of my favorite properties around the world, from European elegance to Asian serenity to Caribbean paradises. Each one has a story. Each one left its mark.
Claire B. Soares is the Founder & CEO of Caviar in the Air, a luxury travel company that curates exquisite trips to exotic destinations. As a 5X Condé Nast Traveler Top Travel Specialist who has traveled to 64+ countries across seven continents, she knows what makes a travel experience truly extraordinary.
Ready to experience the magic of Olonana? Plan your Kenya + Uganda adventure with us today.
Want to explore more of my favorite hotels? Stay tuned for the next installment in the "Hotels That Changed Me" series, and join our travel community to be the first to know when new experiences drop.
